poniedziałek, 11 marca 2013

Jak wydostalismy sie z Cali :) / How we left Cali :)

Scroll down for the English version

W Cali spedzilismy w sumie 11 dni. Gdy po raz pierwszy uslyszelismy o strajkach plantatorow kawy nie przejelismy sie zbytnio majac nadzieje, ze za dzien maksimum dwa dni bedzie po wszystkim i bedziemy mogli znowu ruszyc w droge. Niestety strajki sie coraz bardziej przedluzaly i po ponad tygodniu w stolicy salsy wiedzielismy, ze wyjechac stad nie bedzie latwo...

W calej tej sytuacji mielismy niesamowicie duzo szczescia: jak juz pisalam wczesniej przez pierwszy tydzien goscil nas Victor w Jamundi, ktory przygarnal nas gdy juz myslelismy, ze bedziemy zmuszeni spac w jakims tanim hotelu w Cali. Po tygodniu przenieslismy sie na dwa dni do Oscara – przyjaciela Victora, ktory rozpiescil nasze podniebienia niesamowitymi potrawami, ktore dla nas przygotowywal. Obaj Victor i Oscar probowali dowiedziec sie ile tylko mozna bylo na temat mozliwych sposobow opuszczenia Cali. Po wykonaniu wielu telefonow udalo sie um w koncu dotrzec do osoby odpowiedzialnej za zorganizowanie samolotow do Pasto dla osob, ktore utknely w Cali. Okazalo sie jednak, ze kontakt ten zdobylismy o jeden dzien za pozno, gdyz rzad kolumbijski zorganizowal juz 4 samoloty, ktore przegapilismy i nie zapowiada sie, zeby mialo ich byc wiecej...

Wtedy tez przenieslismy sie do hostelu, gdzie mielismy nadzieje spotkac ludzi w podobnej sytuacji i moze razem cos zorganizowac. Tam tez spotkalismy chlopakow, ktorzy wlasnie przedostali sie z Pasto do Cali przez blokady na drogach. Zajelo im to 3 dni (zamiast standardowych 8 godzin) i troche kosztowalo, ale dali rade. Po rozmowie z nimi i zdobyciu szczegolowych informacji na temat drogi (podobno bylo tam zorganizowanych ponad 40 blokad!) podjelismy decyzje: jedziemy! W planie byly czesciowo autobusy, motorki, autostop i troche chodzenia (tam gdzie zawiedzie wszelki inny transport). W sumie okolo 400km przedzierania sie przez blokady. Wedlug zdobytych przez nas informacji wszyscy po drodze byli bardzo mili i nie powinnismy sie niczego obawiac. Pomimo tego szczerze mowiac mialam pewne obawy (w koncu jestesmy w kraju, w ktorym do teraz okazjonalnie zdarzaja sie porwania turystow i spotkania z guerilla...).

Dzien przed planowanym wyjazdem wybralismy sie na dworzec, aby dowiedziec sie o ktorej odjezdza pierwszy autobus do Santander, skad mielismy sie przedostac do pierwszej blokady oraz zobaczyc jak wyglada sytuacja z turystami. Spotkalismy grupke backpackersow, ktorzy tkwili na dworcu juz piec dni. Jeden z nich powiedzial nam, ze juz 3 razy byl na liscie na samolot, ale nigdy sie do nie go nie dostal i chyba generalnie obcokrajowcy nie maja za bardzo na to szans... Ten sam chlopak zdecydowal sie wyruszyc nastepnego dnia z nami na podboj barykad (w koncu w grupie zawsze razniej :))

Wieczorem przepakowalismy plecaki i po 4:00 bylismy na dworcu. Szybko udalo sie nam odnalezc naszego domniemanego towarzysza podrozy, ktory rownie szybko poinformowal nas, ze wlasnie za chwile odjezdza pierwszy autobus do Ipiales! Tym sposobem nasza pierwsza planowana prawdziwa przygoda spalila na panewce :) Nie to zebysmy narzekali! W sumie ucieszylismy sie tak bardzo, ze bez chwili zastanowienia kupilismy prawdopodobnie najdrozsze mozliwe bilety... (zamiast mozliwych 40tys pesos zaplacilismy 55tys, ale autobus byl super wygodny i jeszcze dostalismy napoj i wafelek na droge :)). W sumie nie byla to, az tak zla decyzja biorac pod uwage, ze droga zamiast 10 godzin zajela nam 18 ze wzgledu na olbrzymie korki spowodowane przez tiry, ktore w koncu mogly ruszyc w droge.

Koniec koncow wyjezdzamy z Kolumbii. A w Kolumbii sie kompletnie zakochalam ze wzgledu na przepiekne krajobrazy, przesympatycznych ludzi, mnogosc owocow, muzyke i cudowny klimat. I chyba jest to milosc wzajemna skoro Kolumbia tak bardzo nie chciala nas stad wypuscic, jednak kiedy sie zaparlismy na wyjazd otworzyla ona nam swoje drogi :) A teraz czas rozpoczac nowy rozdzial: Ekwador!

English:
In Cali we spent a total of 11 days. When I first heard about the strikes of the coffee growers I wasn’t worrying too much hoping that it would take a day maximum two days to finish and we would be able to hit the road again. Unfortunately, strikes lasted for days and days and after more than a week in the capital of salsa we knew that it will not be easy to leave ...

In this situation, we had a lot of amazing luck: as I said before the first week we were hosted by Victor in Jamundi, who already had helped us when we thought we'd have to sleep in a cheap hotel in Cali. After a week, we moved for two days to Oscar – Victor’s friend, who spoiled us with really amazing food, he prepared for us. Both Victor and Oscar tried to find out as much as possible about possible ways of leaving Cali. After making several phone calls they managed to finally reach the person responsible for arranging planes to Pasto for people stuck in Cali. It turned out, however, that this contact we have gained about one day too late, because the Colombian government already organized four planes, which we missed and they said there wouldn’t be more flights...

Then we moved to the hostel, where we were hoping to meet people in a similar situation and possibly arrange something together. There we met the boys, who just came from Pasto to Cali through blockades. It took them 3 days (instead of the standard 8 hours) and it cost a little, but they were in Cali after all. After talking with them and getting detailed information about the road (there was apparently organized over 40 blockades!) we decided: let's go! We were supposed to use buses, motorbikes, hitchhiking and a little walking (where all other means of transport fails). In total, we had about 400km to break through the blockades. According to the information we acquired all along the way people were very nice and we should not worry too much. Despite this information, I had some concerns (on the end of the day we are in a country where until now the occasional kidnapping of tourists and meetings with guerilla happen...).

The day before departure we went to the station to find out about the first bus which departs to Santander, from where we were to get to the first blockade and see how the situation looks with the tourists who were on the station. We met a group of backpackers who stuck at the station for five days. One of them told us that he was already 3 times on the list to board the plane, but never got to the plane, and he thought foreigners generally do not have too much chance to get there... The same boy decided to go the next day with us to conquer the barricades (on the end the more the merrier :))

After coming back to the hostel we repacked our backpacks and after 4:00 am we were at the station. We quickly managed to find our alleged travel companion, who advised us equally quickly, that in 5 minutes the first bus to Ipiales was departing! In this way, our first planned real adventure finished before it really started J But we were not complaining! Overall we enjoyed it the so much that without a second thought we bought probably the most expensive tickets possible ... (Instead of possible 40,000 pesos we paid 55,000 pesos, but the bus was super comfortable and we got drink and waffles on the way :)). All in all it was not such a bad a decision taking into account that the journey instead of 10 hours took us 18 because of the huge traffic jams caused by trucks, which after almost 2 weeks of staying could eventually move.

Eventually we left Columbia. And I completely felt in love with Colombia because of the beautiful scenery, very nice and helpful people, multitude of fruit, music and a wonderful atmosphere. I think it is a mutual love as Colombia did not want us to leave, but when we insisted she opened her roads to us:)  And now it's time to start a new chapter of our journey: Ecuador!

1 komentarz:

  1. Hey Justyna! This is Morgane (you hosted me in London last November), I just discovered your blog and read it all about your trip in South America :)Thats sounds really great, seams like you had already quite a lot of adventures so far... Anyway I'll continue following your blog and looking at your amazing photos...:) Thanks for sharing all of this with us :)
    Bye

    Morgane

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